Betta Vase – Is it the Perfect Betta House?

March 10, 2013

Betta Vase – Is it the Perfect Betta House?

So, you’re thinking about buying a betta fish. You see them everywhere in a Betta vase, or small bowl, but is this type of Betta house conducive to long life and health? The Betta vase you got with your fish from the pet store may appear large enough for your little friend, but it is lacking three essential characteristics to make it the perfect Betta house your Neptunian buddy can be proud of.

Sad Betta Fish in Tiny Betta Vase

Sad Betta Fish in Tiny Betta Vase

1 – Betta Temperature regulation

Unlike you and me, your little Betta can not simply add a sweater, or change into shorts and a t-shirt to regulate his body temperature. He also can not adjust the thermostat in his Betta house. In the case of a Betta vase, there is no means of regulating temperature. To provide your fish with the best possible chance at a long, healthy life, a heater with programmable thermostat needs to be in place.

2 – High Betta water quality

The water in a Betta vase, even when changed frequently, is not nearly as disease free and clean as that in a Betta house that has a water filtration system. Aside from filtering the water to clean it, the filter breeds good bacteria in its reservoir that help control the ammonia levels in your fish’s habitat. This keeps your finny friend comfortable and healthy, and makes water changes and tank cleanings much easier.

3 – Space

Yep, your fish can survive in his little Betta vase, but he can only thrive in a Betta house that is three or more gallons. Your fish needs more room to swim and check out his new digs. He gets much more exercise in a larger tank. His personality has room to grow, and he will live longer and stronger. I prefer five gallons at least, but a three gallon is even a huge improvement over the tiny Betta vase he is in now.

Happy Betta with Lots of Room to Grow

Happy Betta with Lots of Room to Grow

A Betta vase may look fine, but it is very minimal in providing your fish with a healthy environment. The perfect Betta house is at least three gallons, preferably five, and has a thermostat controlled heater and water filtration system. The three secret ingredients to keeping your fish living well beyond the industry average of six months are clean water, disease prevention and comfortable habitat, and these items cover all the bases. Provide them for your fish, and you can expect him to live as many as five or six years.

“Want to know the Betta Facts for successful betta set-up and care? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years. Head to this special web site for some incredible betta care tips (and a limited time offer). See you there!”

Elizabeth Christopher

P.S.
If you enjoyed the info, don’t forget to share with your friends through the social buttons below! Let’s save as many Betta Fish as we can, and give them the best lives possible.

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Betta Temperature Regulation – What is the Magic Number?

April 21, 2010

Betta Temperature Regulation – What is the Magic Number ?
By Elizabeth Christopher

Betta fish are tropical fish, and in such, require about the same temperature range for their tank as other pet fish. However, betta temperature has to be regulated more closely, with few spikes or drops. Betta fish are highly susceptible to disease, more so than most other pet fish, and almost all of the diseases they catch are brought on by stress. Betta temperature fluctuation is a common cause of stress in these beautiful fish, and can easily be removed altogether by following a few simple rules.

1 – 3 to 5 watts per gallon

When purchasing a programmable heater, make sure that it is strong enough to provide the correct Betta temperature of 78 to 82 degrees. As long as you buy one that has 3 to 5 watts per gallon of Betta tank size, you will be fine. This ensures it is able to handle severe temperature drops should something go wrong. Sometimes, people forget to leave the heat on when they are going away for a couple of days, and a weak heater will freeze your fish dead.

2 – Manually check the temperature daily

Do not trust your heater! Manually check the Betta temperature every day. Just because you have a programmable heater with a thermostat does not mean it will last forever. Nothing made by man does. By manually checking the temperature at different times each day, you will find out how your Betta tank is faring. If you only checked it at night, you would not realize that sun from a window is heating the tank to a dangerous level during the day, for example.

3 – Backup thermometer

Your heater is on of thousands that are mass produced every day. Can you imagine the odds against every heater being perfect? Betta temperature should be double-checked by placing a small inexpensive floating thermometer in the tank. When you check the temperature on the heater’s display, check the thermometer’s too. I can not tell you how many times in the last twenty years I have had to replace a faulty heater, and I never would have known had I not purchased a backup thermometer.

Buying a good programmable heater is a great step towards providing the right Betta temperature for your fish. But it is only the first step. Consistently checking the temperature, and verifying it on a backup thermometer will guarantee you provide a healthy, warm home for your Betta Splendens.

Hi guys,
Elizabeth here.
I just wanted to say thank you for reading, and let you in on a special offer that a friend of mine has made available to the readers of my blog.

Adam Short has been raising Betta Fish for over 25 years, and has compiled all his extensive knowledge into the most comprehensive, no “B. S.” (baloney sandwich) betta care guide I have found. I have personally been raising bettas for 20 years, and was amazed at the amount of information in this e-Book that I would never have known, like how to get bettas to live up to 5 years!

For a limited time, if you use this special link …
Betta Care Bible
you will receive this amazing Betta Care Guide
at a special price, and
4 FREE bonuses.

Here’s what you get –

1 – Betta Care Guide – regular price $19.77
Already over 970 happy customers. Covers tank prep, purchasing supplies, choosing bettas, maintenance, upkeep and treating disease. Most exhaustive betta care guide I have found. (I personally value this guide at over $100, it is that good.)

2 – Medicine Checklist – regular price $4.95
A list of products to keep in your Betta medicine chest. A must have.

3 – Online Shopping Checklist – regular price $4.95
A list of the best places to shop online for Betta supplies.

4 – Aquarium Checklist – regular price $4.95
A complete list of all of the items you need to start and run your Betta aquarium the right way.

5 – Specific Recommendations and Reviews – regular price $4.95

This is a $39.57 value … and you can get it today for only $14.77.
That’s about the cost of two betta fish (or one nice one!).

Adam is allowing this special offer to go to only the
NEXT 36 betta lovers who use this special link … Betta Care Bible

This offer will not last long, so click the link and download now.

This is the same course I refer to every day, and I know it can help enrich your life and the lives of your beautiful bettas.

Elizabeth

P.S.

“Want to know the Betta Facts for successful betta set-up and care? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years. Head to this special web site for some incredible betta care tips (and a limited time offer). See you there!”

Elizabeth Christopher

P.S.
If you enjoyed the info, don’t forget to share with your friends through the social buttons below! Let’s save as many Betta Fish as we can, and give them the best lives possible.


Betta Diseases – Ich (Ichthyophthirius)

April 6, 2010

Betta Diseases – Ich (Ichthyophthirius)
By Elizabeth Christopher

If you have noticed small white spots on your betta’s fins or body, you may have the warm weather of Florida to blame. Ichthyophthirius, also known as ick or ich, is one of the many betta diseases which attacks stressed fish, and is commonly found on fish which were grown in fresh water ponds.

Ich is a protozoan disease that attacks a fish’s immune system when it is lowered by cold temperatures or unhealthy tank conditions. Since most pet bettas are produced in ponds in Florida, it rears its ugly head in pet stores in the spring. It probably exists in all tanks, and lies dormant until bettas come stressed, or a new fish is added to the aquarium.

As betta diseases go, this is a particularly nasty one to battle due to its relative immunity to treatment. A young protozoan ich notices a betta (food supply) and bores into its skin. It begins to feed, until it reaches a large size, causing a small white spot to appear on the skin or fin.

When you see the white spot, that is a sign that the bacteria is in a feeding stage. When it becomes fully grown, it covers itself in an impenetrable cyst, and jettisons from the betta’s body, where it drifts along the tank’s currents until it adheres itself to a plant, a bit of gravel or a rock. The tomant stage, inside the cyst, divides again and again, producing approximately one thousand offspring.

When these thousand or so bacteria become too big for their protective cyst, they break out to find more fish to feed on, and it is only at this stage in the ich life cycle where they are susceptible to chemicals. Formalin or copper sulfate needs to be kept at high levels in the aquarium for an extended period of time to be available when the cysts hatch. The tank temperature should also be raised slightly to shorten the bacterium’s development time and give a much needed boost to your betta’s immune system.

With few exceptions, proper tank care erases the possibility of betta diseases. Simple preparation and maintenance must be followed. All fish are different, so do not assume because you had others, you will understand how best to care for your betta. Make sure you follow an informative and complete betta care manual.

“Want to know all about Betta Diseases, and total betta set-up and care? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years, and I have found the best betta care guide I have seen in the many years I have been doing this. I use it daily, and it is the only betta care guide I recommend. You can find it HERE, currently on sale.”
Elizabeth Christopher


Betta Nests – Mouth Brooder Or Bubble Nest Betta?

March 29, 2010

Betta Nests – Mouth Brooder Or Bubble Nest Betta

Betta nests are created by the male of the species. There are two types of betta breeders, and those are the mouth brooding betta and the bubble nest betta. These types of breeding are very different, so different nests are built. These two types of betta nests have many similarities and differences. How do you know which type you have? Let’s take a look at the beautiful betta’s nest building habits.

Bettas that build air-bubble nests on the bottom side of the surface of water do so when water conditions are not rapid. In nature, if a betta gives birth in a fast moving stream or lake, they will keep the brood in their mouth, since the bubble nest would easily be destroyed by water movement. In the betta aquarium, however, there is generally not rapidly moving water, so the male betta will suck air into his mouth and attach a layer of saliva to this air. He then blows the bubbles out and they cling to the surface of the water. When the fry are produced, the male moves them to this nest, and will protect it aggressively, even against his partner.

Make sure that you have some surface plants for these bubbles to cling to should your male betta decide to go this route.

If the male betta feels threatened, or feels that the water is moving too rapidly, he will take the brood into his mouth, and hold them there for 7 to 10 days for the fry to develop. The bubble nest betta male may not eat during this entire time, and could begin to look sickly and thin. This is normal behavior for these fish when making betta nests. A dead giveaway that this is the case is that the male will generally back into a cave, or huddle at the surface of the water, with the female guarding him.

Regardless which of the betta nests your fish employs, a tight fitting cover or plastic wrap should be fitted over the tank to keep any cold air from reaching the surface. A warmer betta temperature is a must for healthy growth. If when the fry are young, they receive any cold air when they swim to the top of their aquarium, they can catch pneumonia and die.

These are just a few of the steps to take when breeding bettas, and an in-depth betta care manual should be kept on hands at all times to handle any eventuality.

Want to know all about Betta Nests, and total betta set-up and care? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years, and thought I knew it all, but then I found the best betta care guide I have ever seen. Head to http://www.GodzillaFish.info for the same betta care guide I use every day; currently on sale, with 4 FREE bonuses. (limited time offer).
Elizabeth Christopher


Betta Mating – The Bubble Nest Betta Way !

February 23, 2010

Betta mating at times seems to be a guaranteed outcome. Your bubble nest betta male has made his nest, the betta female is responding favorably to his amorous advances, and then nothing. What went wrong? Why was this betta mating endeavor a failure? Let’s see just what is needed for successful betta mating for the bubble nest betta.

1 – Size Does Matter!

If your betta mating efforts do not plan out, it may be because your male is too young or small to be a successful bubble nest betta dad. Keep in mind that he needs to be at least three and a half months old, and also at least an inch in length. So I guess size really does matter in the betta mating world. The male also needs to be larger than the female so he can wrap his body around hers in the breeding process.

2 – Drop the Betta Temperature to Heat Things Up!

Lowering the temperature of your betta tank from 80 degrees to a range from 76 – 78 degrees will heighten the chances of successful betta mating. Something about the lower betta temperature gets these fish ready to cuddle and snuggle, and is a prerequisite for the bubble nest betta to deliver fry.

3 – Pour on The Calories!

The betta mating process requires a lot of energy to be expended, so make sure you are feeding your fish extra for a week or two before you introduce them to your mating tank. Overfeeding can be deadly, as bettas can develop Betta Dropsy disease. Just slowly ramp up their feeding, and you will be fine.

4 – Separate Before You Consummate!

Your bubble nest betta male and betta female should be kept in different tanks, but next to each other so they can see each other. Keep an opaque board or sheet between the two tanks, and remove every two or three days and watch their behavior. If the betta female shows her vertical bars (a deep vertical striping on her body), her dorsal fin is erect, and looks in the direction of the male, she is ready.

5 – Blow Some Bubbles Daddy!

Everything at this point is a go, as long as the male has created a bubble nest in his tank. After the pair sees each other and seem to be getting after each other, he should start to create a nest of bubbles at the surface of his water.

6 – Introducing Mr and Mrs Bubble Nest Betta!

Now you are ready to introduce the pair to the spawning tank. Have some sort of structure in the tank so the betta female can hide from the male if she needs to. Introduce the female first, and put her behind a transparent barrier. Add the male, turn the heat to 81 – 82 degrees, and watch for the male to create his bubble nest. After he has done this, remove the barrier, and consider your betta mating a success.

Hi guys,
Elizabeth here.
I just wanted to let you in on a special offer that a friend of mine has made available to the readers of my blog.

Adam Short has been raising Betta Fish for over 25 years, and has compiled all his extensive knowledge into the most comprehensive, no “B. S.” (baloney sandwich) betta care guide I have found. I have personally been raising bettas for 20 years, and was amazed at the amount of information in this e-Book that I would never have known, like how to get bettas to live up to 5 years!

For a limited time, if you use this special link …
http://www.GodzillaFish.info
you will receive this amazing Betta Care Guide
at a special price, and
4 FREE bonuses.

Here’s what you get –

1 – Betta Care Guide – regular price $19.77 – sale price $14.77
Already over 970 happy customers. (I personally value this guide at over $100, it is that good.)

2 – Medicine Checklist – regular price $4.95 – sale price FREE!
A list of products to keep in your Betta medicine chest. A must have.

3 – Online Shopping Checklist – regular price $4.95 – sale price FREE!
A list of the best places to shop online for Betta supplies.

4 – Aquarium Checklist – regular price $4.95 – sale price FREE!
A complete list of all of the items you need to start and run your Betta aquarium the right way.

5 – Specific Offers and Reviews – regular price $4.95 – sale price FREE!

This is a $39.57 value … and you can get it today for only $14.77.
That’s about the cost of two betta fish (or one nice one!).

Adam is allowing this special offer to go to only the
NEXT 50 36 buyers who use this special link … http://www.GodzillaFish.info

This is the same course I refer to every day, and I know it can help enrich your life and the lives of your beautiful bettas.

Elizabeth

P.S.
When you get the course, let me know
what you think and I will post
your input here!

ElizabethChristopher@BettaFacts.info