Betta Vase – Is it the Perfect Betta House?

March 10, 2013

Betta Vase – Is it the Perfect Betta House?

So, you’re thinking about buying a betta fish. You see them everywhere in a Betta vase, or small bowl, but is this type of Betta house conducive to long life and health? The Betta vase you got with your fish from the pet store may appear large enough for your little friend, but it is lacking three essential characteristics to make it the perfect Betta house your Neptunian buddy can be proud of.

Sad Betta Fish in Tiny Betta Vase

Sad Betta Fish in Tiny Betta Vase

1 – Betta Temperature regulation

Unlike you and me, your little Betta can not simply add a sweater, or change into shorts and a t-shirt to regulate his body temperature. He also can not adjust the thermostat in his Betta house. In the case of a Betta vase, there is no means of regulating temperature. To provide your fish with the best possible chance at a long, healthy life, a heater with programmable thermostat needs to be in place.

2 – High Betta water quality

The water in a Betta vase, even when changed frequently, is not nearly as disease free and clean as that in a Betta house that has a water filtration system. Aside from filtering the water to clean it, the filter breeds good bacteria in its reservoir that help control the ammonia levels in your fish’s habitat. This keeps your finny friend comfortable and healthy, and makes water changes and tank cleanings much easier.

3 – Space

Yep, your fish can survive in his little Betta vase, but he can only thrive in a Betta house that is three or more gallons. Your fish needs more room to swim and check out his new digs. He gets much more exercise in a larger tank. His personality has room to grow, and he will live longer and stronger. I prefer five gallons at least, but a three gallon is even a huge improvement over the tiny Betta vase he is in now.

Happy Betta with Lots of Room to Grow

Happy Betta with Lots of Room to Grow

A Betta vase may look fine, but it is very minimal in providing your fish with a healthy environment. The perfect Betta house is at least three gallons, preferably five, and has a thermostat controlled heater and water filtration system. The three secret ingredients to keeping your fish living well beyond the industry average of six months are clean water, disease prevention and comfortable habitat, and these items cover all the bases. Provide them for your fish, and you can expect him to live as many as five or six years.

“Want to know the Betta Facts for successful betta set-up and care? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years. Head to this special web site for some incredible betta care tips (and a limited time offer). See you there!”

Elizabeth Christopher

If you enjoyed the info, don’t forget to share with your friends through the social buttons below! Let’s save as many Betta Fish as we can, and give them the best lives possible.


Betta Temperature Regulation – What is the Magic Number?

April 21, 2010

Betta Temperature Regulation – What is the Magic Number ?
By Elizabeth Christopher

Betta fish are tropical fish, and in such, require about the same temperature range for their tank as other pet fish. However, betta temperature has to be regulated more closely, with few spikes or drops. Betta fish are highly susceptible to disease, more so than most other pet fish, and almost all of the diseases they catch are brought on by stress. Betta temperature fluctuation is a common cause of stress in these beautiful fish, and can easily be removed altogether by following a few simple rules.

1 – 3 to 5 watts per gallon

When purchasing a programmable heater, make sure that it is strong enough to provide the correct Betta temperature of 78 to 82 degrees. As long as you buy one that has 3 to 5 watts per gallon of Betta tank size, you will be fine. This ensures it is able to handle severe temperature drops should something go wrong. Sometimes, people forget to leave the heat on when they are going away for a couple of days, and a weak heater will freeze your fish dead.

2 – Manually check the temperature daily

Do not trust your heater! Manually check the Betta temperature every day. Just because you have a programmable heater with a thermostat does not mean it will last forever. Nothing made by man does. By manually checking the temperature at different times each day, you will find out how your Betta tank is faring. If you only checked it at night, you would not realize that sun from a window is heating the tank to a dangerous level during the day, for example.

3 – Backup thermometer

Your heater is on of thousands that are mass produced every day. Can you imagine the odds against every heater being perfect? Betta temperature should be double-checked by placing a small inexpensive floating thermometer in the tank. When you check the temperature on the heater’s display, check the thermometer’s too. I can not tell you how many times in the last twenty years I have had to replace a faulty heater, and I never would have known had I not purchased a backup thermometer.

Buying a good programmable heater is a great step towards providing the right Betta temperature for your fish. But it is only the first step. Consistently checking the temperature, and verifying it on a backup thermometer will guarantee you provide a healthy, warm home for your Betta Splendens.

Hi guys,
Elizabeth here.
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“Want to know the Betta Facts for successful betta set-up and care? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years. Head to this special web site for some incredible betta care tips (and a limited time offer). See you there!”

Elizabeth Christopher

If you enjoyed the info, don’t forget to share with your friends through the social buttons below! Let’s save as many Betta Fish as we can, and give them the best lives possible.

Betta Diseases – Ich (Ichthyophthirius)

April 6, 2010

Betta Diseases – Ich (Ichthyophthirius)
By Elizabeth Christopher

If you have noticed small white spots on your betta’s fins or body, you may have the warm weather of Florida to blame. Ichthyophthirius, also known as ick or ich, is one of the many betta diseases which attacks stressed fish, and is commonly found on fish which were grown in fresh water ponds.

Ich is a protozoan disease that attacks a fish’s immune system when it is lowered by cold temperatures or unhealthy tank conditions. Since most pet bettas are produced in ponds in Florida, it rears its ugly head in pet stores in the spring. It probably exists in all tanks, and lies dormant until bettas come stressed, or a new fish is added to the aquarium.

As betta diseases go, this is a particularly nasty one to battle due to its relative immunity to treatment. A young protozoan ich notices a betta (food supply) and bores into its skin. It begins to feed, until it reaches a large size, causing a small white spot to appear on the skin or fin.

When you see the white spot, that is a sign that the bacteria is in a feeding stage. When it becomes fully grown, it covers itself in an impenetrable cyst, and jettisons from the betta’s body, where it drifts along the tank’s currents until it adheres itself to a plant, a bit of gravel or a rock. The tomant stage, inside the cyst, divides again and again, producing approximately one thousand offspring.

When these thousand or so bacteria become too big for their protective cyst, they break out to find more fish to feed on, and it is only at this stage in the ich life cycle where they are susceptible to chemicals. Formalin or copper sulfate needs to be kept at high levels in the aquarium for an extended period of time to be available when the cysts hatch. The tank temperature should also be raised slightly to shorten the bacterium’s development time and give a much needed boost to your betta’s immune system.

With few exceptions, proper tank care erases the possibility of betta diseases. Simple preparation and maintenance must be followed. All fish are different, so do not assume because you had others, you will understand how best to care for your betta. Make sure you follow an informative and complete betta care manual.

“Want to know all about Betta Diseases, and total betta set-up and care? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years, and I have found the best betta care guide I have seen in the many years I have been doing this. I use it daily, and it is the only betta care guide I recommend. You can find it HERE, currently on sale.”
Elizabeth Christopher

Betta Water – Proper Betta Tank Setup For Healthy Fish

March 30, 2010

Betta Water – Proper Betta Tank Setup For Healthy Fish
By Elizabeth Christopher

Getting betta water just right is the single most important step to increasing your betta lifespan from the industry average of six moths to a whopping three to five years. This will insure proper betta temperature and water quality. This generally covers heating, water set-up, filtration and substrate (tank flooring) before introducing your fish. Get a comprehensive Betta Care Guide to cover all the deatils.

Betta water in the wild is generally clear to brackish, with little or no water flow. However, betta water in captivity is a whole different situation. A betta tank must be cycled to lower ammonia levels, kept at a constant temperature range, and have constant water changes to ensure a happy, healthy fish.

An ideal betta tank is a five or ten gallon low, rectangular shape. Bettas do not live in deep waters in the wild, so purchasing a deep betta tank is a waste of resources, and your betta will not fully use or enjoy his surroundings. Get a glass or acrylic betta tank, because these do not scratch or fade like plastic, and provide maximum visual enjoyment.

Purchase a water treatment kit at your pet store, follow the directions and get your betta water ready. It is important to let the water sit for 24 to 48 hours to allow the chemicals to affect the water properly. This will get the nitrates started that are needed in your betta tank to offer the best environment for healthy fish.

Substrate is an important part of betta tank setup, since it plays host to good bacteria that form in the tank floor and eat harmful bacteria and ammonia that comes from the fish’s waste. A medium size gravel is fine. I have found that sand, while beautiful in appearance, is much harder to clean, and can grow algae much more rapidly than gravel will.

Purchase a heater that has 3 – 5 watts per gallon size of betta tank. This will keep the betta water at the proper temperature, 78 to 82 degrees. Also get a temperature gauge to double check the heater’s readout.

When purchasing a filtration system, get one that contains some type of sponge filter. This is a great place for good bacteria to live, and help your fish ward off disease by keeping the betta water at a healthy level. Just as the bacteria in your substrate cleans the water, this bacteria polices the nitrite and nitrate levels in your betta tank, keeping them at an acceptable level.

“Want to know all about Betta Tank Setup and proper betta water maintenance? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years, and I have found an amazing resource for betta fish lovers. Head to for the best selling Betta Care Guide on the net, and find out what over 900 satisfied customers already know. Ciurrently on sale (limited time offer). See you there!”
Elizabeth Christopher

Betta Nests – Mouth Brooder Or Bubble Nest Betta?

March 29, 2010

Betta Nests – Mouth Brooder Or Bubble Nest Betta

Betta nests are created by the male of the species. There are two types of betta breeders, and those are the mouth brooding betta and the bubble nest betta. These types of breeding are very different, so different nests are built. These two types of betta nests have many similarities and differences. How do you know which type you have? Let’s take a look at the beautiful betta’s nest building habits.

Bettas that build air-bubble nests on the bottom side of the surface of water do so when water conditions are not rapid. In nature, if a betta gives birth in a fast moving stream or lake, they will keep the brood in their mouth, since the bubble nest would easily be destroyed by water movement. In the betta aquarium, however, there is generally not rapidly moving water, so the male betta will suck air into his mouth and attach a layer of saliva to this air. He then blows the bubbles out and they cling to the surface of the water. When the fry are produced, the male moves them to this nest, and will protect it aggressively, even against his partner.

Make sure that you have some surface plants for these bubbles to cling to should your male betta decide to go this route.

If the male betta feels threatened, or feels that the water is moving too rapidly, he will take the brood into his mouth, and hold them there for 7 to 10 days for the fry to develop. The bubble nest betta male may not eat during this entire time, and could begin to look sickly and thin. This is normal behavior for these fish when making betta nests. A dead giveaway that this is the case is that the male will generally back into a cave, or huddle at the surface of the water, with the female guarding him.

Regardless which of the betta nests your fish employs, a tight fitting cover or plastic wrap should be fitted over the tank to keep any cold air from reaching the surface. A warmer betta temperature is a must for healthy growth. If when the fry are young, they receive any cold air when they swim to the top of their aquarium, they can catch pneumonia and die.

These are just a few of the steps to take when breeding bettas, and an in-depth betta care manual should be kept on hands at all times to handle any eventuality.

Want to know all about Betta Nests, and total betta set-up and care? I have enjoyed raising healthy, happy bettas for over 20 years, and thought I knew it all, but then I found the best betta care guide I have ever seen. Head to for the same betta care guide I use every day; currently on sale, with 4 FREE bonuses. (limited time offer).
Elizabeth Christopher

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